Cigar cuts: guillotine, punch, V-cut, and lancero

There are three types of cigar cuts: the guillotine, which removes the cap in one clean slice; the punch, which cuts a cylinder-shaped piece without opening the cap; and the V-cut, which cuts a deep V-shaped notch. Each one alters the cross-sectional area, and thus the draw resistance, which in turn affects the combustion temperature—and consequently the perceived flavor profile. The choice is not a matter of style: it is a technical consideration that must be tailored to the ring gauge, the shape of the head, and the construction of the cigar.

For a retailer, it’s also one of the few areas where expertise translates directly into revenue. The cigar cutter is a high-margin product with a regular replacement cycle—and, above all, an item whose sale depends entirely on the quality of the advice given. A customer convinced by a thirty-second demonstration will buy a hundred-franc cutter; the same customer, left alone in front of a display case, will walk away with a fifteen-franc budget model.

This overview traces the history of each system, its actual mechanisms, its limitations—and, above all, the logic behind pairing a cut with a vitola, which is what sets an accessories salesperson apart from a consultant.

Anatomy of the Scalp: What We're Actually Cutting

Before discussing tools, we need to look at what we’re working on. The head of a hand-rolled cigar isn’t just a rounded end—it’s an assembly. One or more pieces of wrapper are glued to the top of the filler to seal it in place, using a plant-based adhesive—natural tobacco paste or a mixture of flour and water, depending on the workshop. This cap serves three purposes: it prevents the wrapper from unrolling, it holds the filler in place, and it provides the smoker with a comfortable surface in the mouth.

That’s where the subtlety of the cut lies. You have to open it up enough to allow the smoke to flow, but not so much that it crosses the shoulder line—that area where the cap ends and the wrapper is simply rolled up. Once past that point, nothing holds the wrapper in place: it unrolls during smoking, usually in the second third, at the worst possible moment. A retailer who explains this geometry to a customer has, single-handedly, justified the price of a fine cigar.

The second factor—a physical one—is the cross-sectional area. The draw of a cigar is a matter of flow. The column of tobacco offers resistance determined by the density of the roll; the opening in the cap acts as the outlet. If the opening is too small, you restrict the flow: the smoker has to draw harder, combustion accelerates locally, the temperature rises, and bitter flavors emerge. If the opening is too large, air flows without resistance: the cigar burns quickly, overheats, and loses the aromatic character that fermentation had imparted to it.

That’s why the cut isn’t just a detail. It’s the only aspect that the smoker actually controls in a product where everything else—the blend, fermentation, rolling, and aging—was decided years earlier in Santiago.

From the Pocket Knife to the Double-Edged Knife: A History of Cutting

The history of the cigar cutter is the story of a craft that has come to fulfill a practical need. For decades, people cut open cigars with whatever was at hand: a pocket knife, a fingernail, or simply their teeth.

The first documented technical description dates back to 1859, written by Frederick William Fairholt in *Tobacco: Its History and Associations*. He describes a pocket knife made entirely of steel, manufactured in Berlin for cigar smokers: the spring was designed so that the blade did not close completely over the cutting edge; the end of the cigar was inserted into the opening at the tip, and pressing the tip with a finger would cut off the head. The same author documents a second tool, more similar to our modern ones: a double-edged cutter that, when closed, served as a clamp to hold the cigar firmly between the thumb and index finger—with a small loop for attaching it to a watch chain.

The very first identifiable cigar cutter was therefore not a blade but a punch, traces of which can be found as early as 1868. In other words, the punch historically predates the guillotine. This fact is worth noting, given that the reverse order is so intuitively accepted.

The instruments then became more refined, often to the point of ornamentation—solid silver, engravings, and monumental tabletop mechanisms for club smoking rooms. Then the twentieth century brought the object back to its utilitarian roots. The true modern technical breakthrough can be summed up in two words: double blade. Two cutting edges that meet simultaneously on both sides exert infinitely less pressure on the head than a single blade pushing against a stop. The result is a clean cut, without crushing the cap or causing any tearing.

One final factor, purely contemporary: the opening diameter. Antique cigar cutters were sized for the calibers of their era. They are physically incapable of accommodating 60-ring gauge cigars and larger, which now account for a significant share of the market. A customer coming in to buy a cigar cutter should be asked what he smokes before anything else—that’s the first question to ask, not the last.

The Guillotine: The Universal Standard and Its Limitations

The straight cut is the most common method today, and for good reason. It removes the entire cap and exposes the entire cross-section of the module. The result: maximum draw, a generous smoke flow, and minimal buildup of tar and saliva on the edges—the opening is too wide to become clogged.

Its advantages. First, versatility: it works on all head shapes, whether rounded or conical. Second, predictability: it’s the easiest cut to get right on the first try, making it the least risky option for a rare hair type. Finally, portability: a flat model slips easily into a shirt pocket without taking up much space.

Its limitations. It is also the most unforgiving cut. A dull blade doesn’t slice—it crushes, then tears. The cap splits in a star-shaped pattern, the cap lifts, and the cigar is compromised before the first puff. It’s also the most prone to depth errors—it’s the cause of nearly all caps that unroll while smoking.

The guideline to share with the client is simple and works on almost all rounded-head modules: aim one or two millimeters above the shoulder line—never below it. You can always trim it if the fit is too tight; you should never reattach a cape that has come loose.

Cigar scissors deserve a special mention. Technically, they produce a straight cut, but with greater depth control than any guillotine: the user can see exactly where the blades come together. It is the most precise tool available—and the one that demands the most dexterity. Reserve them for customers who smoke at home and who value the ritual as much as the result—incidentally, they’re also one of the most beautiful items you can sell in a store.

Finally, a word of caution that applies to all systems but especially to the guillotine: your finger is not a cigar. In January 1999, Michael Jordan severed a tendon in his right index finger while cutting a cigar—an injury that required surgery. The anecdote brings a smile; it serves as a reminder that a high-quality double-bladed knife is a sharp object, and that in-store demonstrations are always performed on a cutting board, never on bare skin.

Punch: aromatic intensity and precision of execution

The punch doesn't cut; it drills. A circular blade removes a cylinder of tobacco from the center of the cigar, leaving the cap intact all around. Some purists, in fact, dispute whether it is a cigar cutter in the strict sense—the action is more like drilling than cutting.

There are three main types. The bullet punch, shaped like a bullet, is carried on a keychain: you unscrew the cap to expose the circular blade. It’s practical, sturdy, and inexpensive—with one flaw known to all sellers: the cap gets lost, and the blade ends up exposed in your pocket. The Havana punch addresses this issue: the blade is retracted into a casing and extends when a button is pressed, much like a ballpoint pen. Finally, the multi-punch combines two or more diameters to cover various sizes; it’s frequently built into modern torch lighters, making it an excellent complementary product to offer.

Its advantages. Since the cap stays in place, there’s no risk of unraveling: it’s the safest cut possible in this regard. It exposes very little filler and binder, which virtually eliminates tobacco strands in the mouth—a decisive factor for customers who find this detail annoying. And the reduced cross-section concentrates the smoke flow: the smoke is denser and richer, which many enthusiasts interpret as enhanced aromatic intensity.

Its limitations. This same reduction in cross-sectional area is also its weakness. On a cigar that’s already tightly rolled, the punch can make drawing on it downright difficult. The small hole becomes clogged with saliva and tobacco particles, requiring you to re-punch it while smoking. And most importantly: the punch only works on flat or slightly domed heads. On a Figurado or a Perfecto with a tapered head, it simply has no surface to rest against—this is an absolute contraindication, not a matter of preference.

Store tip: Offer the punch as a secondary tool, never as the only one. It’s a specialized tool—excellent for large-caliber, round-headed modules—but unusable on a significant portion of the product line.

The V-cut: The Most Misunderstood Cut

The V-cut has more names than any other system: V-cut, wedge cut, cat’s eye, English cut, notch cut. This profusion of terms speaks volumes about its unique status—a tool that everyone knows but few truly master.

The principle: a curved blade cuts a V-shaped notch in the head without removing the cap. This detail makes all the difference. Whereas the guillotine creates a flat surface and the punch creates a cylinder, the V-cut creates a slit that penetrates deeper into the tripe than a straight cut, while leaving the cap ring intact around the edge.

You need to know where this tool comes from to understand what it’s used for. The V-cut was originally designed for pyramid-shaped vitolas. On a tapered head, a guillotine cut requires slicing quite low to create a large enough opening, which destroys the taper and alters the experience intended by the blender. The V-cut, on the other hand, cuts along the axis and achieves the desired depth without sacrificing the shape. That is its primary purpose—everything else is an extension of its intended use.

Its strengths: A large exchange area despite a visually modest opening, resulting in generous airflow without a funnel effect. The cap remains intact, so there’s no risk of unraveling. And it performs remarkably well with large-caliber cigars, where it concentrates the airflow into a central channel rather than allowing the air to spread across a wide cross-section—many fans of thick cigars find this provides superior flavor definition compared to a straight cut.

Its limitations. They stem almost entirely from the quality of the tool, and this is a major selling point. A cheap V-cut cuts too deeply and unevenly: the slit extends beyond the usable area, the burn becomes uneven, and the cigar burns unevenly starting in the first third. A poor V-cut does more damage than a mediocre guillotine. Conversely, a well-designed model, with a controlled depth stop and a properly sharpened blade, produces the most elegant cut of the three systems.

The resulting sales rule is clear: never stock entry-level V-cut cigar cutters. This is the only category of cigar cutters where the lowest price guarantees customer dissatisfaction—and often results in damaged products being returned, which you’ll then have to resolve.

Lanceros, figurados, and large-caliber cigars: adapting the cut to the vitola

This is where the advice gets really technical, and this is where the difference between a store and a department really comes into play.

The Lancero and Small Calibers. A Lancero—long, slim, typically with a cape width of around 38 to 40—is a balancing act. The tobacco column is narrow, so the margin for error on the opening is minuscule: one millimeter too much, and the cross-sectional area increases disproportionately, causing the cigar to draw weakly and overheat. One millimeter too little and it smothers. A punch cut is out of the question for these sizes, as the standard cut is often close to the cigar’s total diameter. A V-cut is risky, as the slit can cut through too much of the filler. That leaves the guillotine—preferably a double-bladed model with an adjustable opening—or, for those who know how to use them, scissors. With a lancero, cut short, cut sparingly, and it’s always better to trim a little more than to regret it.

Figurados and Perfectos. The “Arturo Fuente Hemingway” series perfectly illustrates the problem: Perfectos with tapered ends, where rolling is an exercise in virtuosity and whose geometry entirely determines how the cigar develops on the palate. With these shapes, the classic mistake is to cut too low “to let air in.” This destroys precisely what the torcedor has built. The correct approach: a minimal cut at the top, even if it means gradually widening it after a few puffs if the draw requires it. The high-quality V-cut finds its true home here.

The big ones. For capes wider than 54, the straight cut creates a wide cross-section where the air flows without a preferred direction. Some smokers find that this results in a loss of aromatic intensity. This is the natural domain of the punch cut—provided the head is round—and especially the V-cut, which channels the airflow. A customer who mainly smokes 58s or 60s and complains of a lack of definition shouldn’t switch cigars: he should switch cuts. No one but you can make that diagnosis.

What about methods that don’t require tools? They do exist, and the history of the cigar is full of them. Winston Churchill would moisten the tip of his cigar in his mouth, pierce it with a long wooden match, and then blow through it to check the airflow. This was his personal method—effective for him, but absolutely not something to be recommended to others. Zino Davidoff was categorical on this point: biting the cap “doesn’t allow for much precision,” and while he acknowledged that some smokers had mastered this technique perfectly, he refused to practice it or recommend it. This position remains the professional standard.

Selling the Right Cigar Cutter: A Counter-Service Approach

Accessories represent a profit margin that many stores fail to fully capitalize on because they lack a method for evaluating them. Here is one such method, broken down into three questions.

Question 1: What ring size do you smoke most often? This immediately determines the required opening diameter and eliminates half the selection on the shelf. A customer who smokes a 60 and leaves with a model limited to 54 will be dissatisfied—and that’s your mistake, not theirs.

Question 2: Round-headed or figurado? It comes down to choosing between a punch and a blade. A fan of Perfectos has no use for a punch, no matter how high-quality it is.

Question 3: At home or on the go? This question distinguishes between scissors and tabletop models on one hand, and flat guillotines and keychain punches on the other. It’s also the question that naturally leads to the purchase of a second tool—most regular enthusiasts end up owning two: one for the armchair and one for their pocket.

Add to that two merchandising strategies. First, the demonstration: a cigar cutter doesn’t sell in a display case—it sells when held in the hand. Let the customer handle it, hear the click of the blades, and feel the difference between a high-quality spring-loaded mechanism and a low-end model. The perception of value is determined in the three seconds it takes to handle the product.

Second, maintenance. Remember that a blade requires maintenance: wipe it down after use to remove tobacco residue and moisture, and store it away from the humidor—the 70% relative humidity in the humidor can corrode untreated steel. A customer to whom you explain how to care for their instrument is a customer who will return for sharpening, replacement parts, or their next purchase. Maintenance advice isn’t a free service—it’s an investment in customer loyalty.

FAQ — Cigar Cuts

Which cut provides the best draw?
The guillotine cut, without a doubt in terms of raw airflow: it removes the entire cap and exposes the entire cross-section of the module. The V-cut follows closely behind, with a large surface area for air exchange despite a visually more discreet opening. The punch cut offers the most restricted draw, which is an advantage for a cigar with a loose fill and a disadvantage for a dense one. The question of the “best” draw only makes sense in relation to the construction of the specific cigar in question.

Can you use a punch on a figurado?
No. A punch requires a flat or slightly domed surface for the circular blade to grip properly. On the tapered head of a Perfecto or Pyramid, there is no usable surface: the tool slips, tears the wrapper, or makes a crooked cut. This is a technical contraindication, not a matter of personal preference. For these vitolas, always opt for a blade—either a shallow-cut guillotine or a high-quality V-cut.

Why does the cape unroll after cutting?
Because the cut extends below the shoulder line—that is, beyond the area where the cape is glued. Once this point is passed, nothing holds the cape rolled up anymore, and the tension from rolling causes it to gradually unroll, usually in the second third. Prevention is simple: cut high, even if it means recutting later. A dull blade significantly worsens the problem by causing a tear instead of making a clean cut.

Is an entry-level V-cut worth as much as a good punch?
No, and this is the only case where the price difference directly translates to product quality. A poorly designed V-cut cuts too deeply and unevenly, which throws off the combustion and causes a “canoe burn” in the first third. Between a low-end V-cut and a decent punch, the punch wins hands down. A V-cut is only justified at a certain level of craftsmanship—with a controlled depth stop and a truly sharp blade.

Does the cut really affect the taste?
Indirectly, but it does. It doesn’t change the composition of the filler; it changes the cross-sectional area—and thus the airflow, and consequently the speed and temperature of combustion. A draw that’s too loose causes the cigar to burn hotter, which flattens the nuances and brings out bitter notes. A draw that’s too tight forces you to inhale hard, with the same thermal effect. Between the two lies the sweet spot where the cigar expresses what the fermentation process has given it.

Do you need different cutters depending on the cigar size?
This is ideal for a regular cigar enthusiast with a varied collection. In practice, a double-blade guillotine with a wide opening covers most situations and is the recommended basic purchase. The second cutter—a punch or V-cut—should be chosen based on what the customer smokes most often: a punch for large, round-headed cigars, and a V-cut for pyramid-shaped cigars and thick modules. This is also the most natural sales approach in a store.

The action that sets everything else in motion

There’s something dizzying about this moment. Before you lies an object that took three years to make its journey from the field to the counter: a seed sown, leaves harvested by hand through successive rounds of priming, months of fermentation monitored with a thermometer, years of resting in a pilón, and a rolling process performed by someone who took twenty years to reach this level of skill. And all of this, you are about to set free—or ruin—with a gesture that lasts half a second.

That is why the question of cutting deserves more than the shrug it often receives. It is not a preliminary step. It is the smoker’s first act in a sequence where, up to that point, he had not made any decisions. Everything else—the liga, the terroir, the aging—has been provided for him. The cutting, however, is entirely his own.

And that’s also why it’s an ideal setting for consulting. A customer who understands why his lancero sounded muffled, why his cape unfurled, or why his 60 sounded flat doesn’t just walk away with an instrument. He walks away convinced that you know what you’re talking about—and that conviction is the one thing no online platform will ever be able to sell him.

Tools have changed a great deal since that Berlin pocketknife described in 1859. The motion, however, hasn’t changed one millimeter. You bring the blade close, find the line, and make a clean cut. Then you bring the cigar to your nose, breathe in the aroma the cut has just released, and take your time before striking the match. It’s those few seconds—more than any sales pitch—that keep people coming back to a cigar shop.